Thread: White spider. The beckoning silence.

Hi Scrap,

thought this would get your attention.

Mate you've climbed in the Swiss Alps.

Have you caught the docu drama the beckoning silence thats been playing on the history channel lately?

Joe Simpson relays the story of Toni Kurz and his teams attempt on the north face back in 39 and what unfolded over 5 days I was glued to it, dont miss it if you see it mate.

Theres a Book Andre, called the White Spider Hiendrich Harrer came out in 60 ish. First Book I ever read from cover to cover . The storys I could tell of mates camping below it waiting for the weather to be correct. Its not technically hard, it attracts bad weather plus its a type of Dolomite Limestone Brittle and theres Avalanches from the top Icefield The Spider. In 72 we had good weather when we did it 2 days. Things like the Frenney Pillar on Mt Blanc are a Harder undertaking, theres been some epics on that.

Oh, Harrer was on the 1st accent, it was down to Politics of the Time think Hitler more or less Sponsored it , some attemps were suicidal. You have to remeber there wasnt any Thermals then clothing that is.

Have you seen that docu I just saw?

So you have done the north face, which route is there only the one?

The Origanal Route Andre 72, think it was the 7th British. Remember the Eiger Sanction, did a bit of Hauling on that. Interestingly it wasnt on the Eiger but on a thing at the side called the Flatiron, also Eastwood did all His own Stunts, except climbing the Totum they used a Helicopter to get Him up there.

The reason why they didnt shoot on the Eiger was insurance of the cameras, they used 4. I forget the price they qouted but it was expensive, Fucking Expensive.

So you've met Clint as well! This gets better and better you should write a book.

Probably better that they shot it off the north face last night on that program they said the sun never touches it.

Does about 11 o/clock thats at the top. Thats when the Bombardments start

That must be real scary shit mate having rocks piffed at you by nature while you hang over a 2 thousand feet drop.



Cant get over that story on the history channel last night about Toni kurz's team so sad, I had a lump in my throat at the end.. Have you seen it yet?

Its so well done Joe gets the train halfway up and steps out and climbs to where it all occured and narrates it while other climbers dressed in the canvas of the day act out all what went down.Filmed really well and heart renching.

Havent seen it, but as I say read the White Spider, would like to see it. They couldnt get back on the Hindasauser Traverse because there was no Rope they didnt Hook it up they trapped themselves Below the Tunnel . Funny its not to Hard there. Its scary when the rock starts going past your Head, the sound is like a whining sound and blowing through your mouth with your lips pouted but shut strange at first hearing it and it wasnt the Eiger that I first heard it . It was the Cima Grandi but thats overhanging the first 1400ft gets alarming when its just vertical. If your names on it theres not a lot you can do, just wear a good crash Helmit. Funny The Cima is in the Italian Dolomites and on top of the three Rock Pinnacles, they have these massive Crosses must be 40ft. Ive always wondered who put them there and How.

When you thought about it or when you have chatted with your mates Scrap, did you guys think up any way of getting that knot through or past the metal clip on Tonis belt ? Was there a way to do that, back in those days, if the ground crew had thought about it more before sending a joined rope up to him?

It seemed once Toni had lowered his weight to the point where the two ropes were joined he didnt have the strength to pull himself up enough to free the knot. (was there an answer they hadnt thought of back in those days ?)

I saw that he tried to get the knot through even with his teeth and after such a horific four days and night hanging in a gale all alone, frost bite etc the poor guy literally gave up the ghost after a while,it was so sad.
I wonder do you know if amends were made to the fixed clips soon after that or was it years later that they made clip on clip off ones?.

Funny enougth there wasnt, it all happened a few years later with the Prusick knots getting a sling [rope in a circle] putting 2 loops round the main rope then you could put your feet in it and using 2, could climb the rope.Now with the clamps its easy. A pal of mine it happened to in the Dolamites on the Yellow Edge Alan Evans Bless Him. It was after that everyone in England learned how to Prussick. Alan came off on an overhang and they couldnt get him up. The Red Sqiurrels Italian Giudes cut Him Down, it was bad for the Tourist Trade .

Funny enougth there wasnt, it all happened a few years later with the Prusick knots getting a sling [rope in a circle] putting 2 loops round the main rope then you could put your feet in it and using 2, could climb the rope.Now with the clamps its easy. A pal of mine it happened to in the Dolamites on the Yellow Edge Alan Evans Bless Him. It was after that everyone in England learned how to Prussick. Alan came off on an overhang and they couldnt get him up. The Red Sqiurrels Italian Giudes cut Him Down, it was bad for the Tourist Trade .

First Climb Andre I did in the Alps at 36 secs its the one in the Middle straight line up the middle. Nice scenery http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R6gnK...eature=related