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Hi Scrap, :)
thought this would get your attention.
Mate you've climbed in the Swiss Alps.
Have you caught the docu drama the beckoning silence thats been playing on the history channel lately?
Joe Simpson relays the story of Toni Kurz and his teams attempt on the north face back in 39 and what unfolded over 5 days I was glued to it, dont miss it if you see it mate.
Theres a Book Andre, called the White Spider Hiendrich Harrer came out in 60 ish. First Book I ever read from cover to cover ;D. The storys I could tell of mates camping below it waiting for the weather to be correct. Its not technically hard, it attracts bad weather plus its a type of Dolomite Limestone Brittle and theres Avalanches from the top Icefield The Spider. In 72 we had good weather when we did it 2 days. Things like the Frenney Pillar on Mt Blanc are a Harder undertaking, theres been some epics on that. ;D
Oh, Harrer was on the 1st accent, it was down to Politics of the Time think Hitler more or less Sponsored it ;D, some attemps were suicidal. You have to remeber there wasnt any Thermals then ;D clothing that is.
Have you seen that docu I just saw?
So you have done the north face, which route is there only the one?
The Origanal Route Andre 72, think it was the 7th British. Remember the Eiger Sanction, did a bit of Hauling on that. Interestingly it wasnt on the Eiger but on a thing at the side called the Flatiron, also Eastwood did all His own Stunts, except climbing the Totum they used a Helicopter to get Him up there. ;D
The reason why they didnt shoot on the Eiger was insurance of the cameras, they used 4. I forget the price they qouted but it was expensive, Fucking Expensive.
So you've met Clint as well! This gets better and better you should write a book.
Probably better that they shot it off the north face last night on that program they said the sun never touches it.
Does about 11 o/clock thats at the top. Thats when the Bombardments start ;D
That must be real scary shit mate having rocks piffed at you by nature while you hang over a 2 thousand feet drop.
Cant get over that story on the history channel last night about Toni kurz's team so sad, I had a lump in my throat at the end.. Have you seen it yet?
Its so well done Joe gets the train halfway up and steps out and climbs to where it all occured and narrates it while other climbers dressed in the canvas of the day act out all what went down.Filmed really well and heart renching.
Havent seen it, but as I say read the White Spider, would like to see it. They couldnt get back on the Hindasauser Traverse because there was no Rope they didnt Hook it up they trapped themselves Below the Tunnel . Funny its not to Hard there. Its scary when the rock starts going past your Head, the sound is like a whining sound and blowing through your mouth with your lips pouted but shut strange at first hearing it and it wasnt the Eiger that I first heard it ;D. It was the Cima Grandi but thats overhanging the first 1400ft gets alarming when its just vertical. If your names on it theres not a lot you can do, just wear a good crash Helmit. Funny The Cima is in the Italian Dolomites and on top of the three Rock Pinnacles, they have these massive Crosses must be 40ft. Ive always wondered who put them there and How. ;D
When you thought about it or when you have chatted with your mates Scrap, did you guys think up any way of getting that knot through or past the metal clip on Tonis belt ? Was there a way to do that, back in those days, if the ground crew had thought about it more before sending a joined rope up to him?
It seemed once Toni had lowered his weight to the point where the two ropes were joined he didnt have the strength to pull himself up enough to free the knot. (was there an answer they hadnt thought of back in those days ?)
I saw that he tried to get the knot through even with his teeth and after such a horific four days and night hanging in a gale all alone, frost bite etc the poor guy literally gave up the ghost after a while,it was so sad.
I wonder do you know if amends were made to the fixed clips soon after that or was it years later that they made clip on clip off ones?.
Funny enougth there wasnt, it all happened a few years later with the Prusick knots getting a sling [rope in a circle] putting 2 loops round the main rope then you could put your feet in it and using 2, could climb the rope.Now with the clamps its easy. A pal of mine it happened to in the Dolamites on the Yellow Edge Alan Evans Bless Him. It was after that everyone in England learned how to Prussick. Alan came off on an overhang and they couldnt get him up. The Red Sqiurrels Italian Giudes cut Him Down, it was bad for the Tourist Trade ;D.
Funny enougth there wasnt, it all happened a few years later with the Prusick knots getting a sling [rope in a circle] putting 2 loops round the main rope then you could put your feet in it and using 2, could climb the rope.Now with the clamps its easy. A pal of mine it happened to in the Dolamites on the Yellow Edge Alan Evans Bless Him. It was after that everyone in England learned how to Prussick. Alan came off on an overhang and they couldnt get him up. The Red Sqiurrels Italian Giudes cut Him Down, it was bad for the Tourist Trade ;D.
First Climb Andre I did in the Alps at 36 secs its the one in the Middle straight line up the middle. Nice scenery ;Dhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R6gnK...eature=related
Wow, so you went up the face straight in the middle of the face thats shown in the film?
Yes, its the Cima Grandi, tha was taken in winter. Its 2000 ft straight up, its got to be the most beutifull place in the World Northern Italy. Cortina has got to be the nicest Town Ive ever been, the views are Breathtaking.
So do you get to it from that snow capped ridge on the left?
Theres a road half a mile away by the Hotel where the Bus stops ;D. We camped by the lake on the front, first time I ever saw two Ibexs having a Fight, made a lot of noise ;D
So do you walk across that ridge or come all the way up from very bottom in the lowest valley?
Cortina is about 5 miles away, we caught the Bus. As I remember it stopped at the Refuge Hotel, which is on the South side takes 15 minutes which is handy to walk round the corner. Not like the Himalayas that takes 15 Days, which you need to acclimateties ;D
My wife is asking half of these questions she is fasinated by the psyche behind mountain mountain climbing, shes got enough books on it.
Which is good she passes over the more exciting and readable stories to me to go through.
She must like crazy men shes in there watching bull riding laughing her head off at the moment. Oh crap, its just dawned on me, the attraction she originally had to me. :bag:
Made it to the Hilary Step 600 from the top. Caught in a whiteout storm. It was something I wouldnt wish on anybody, Dug in for a day then came down, the Party in front was never seen again we were Lucky, its a different world above 27,000 ft and rather cold got to keep the liqiuds going in. If the wife can get Hold of the book on the 1st accent of the Frenny Pillar on Mt Blanc get it it will shock Her, think its Rebuffays account 6 got the chop on that Hair raising stuff forget the Title do a bit of checking. There was a lot of scandell after people throwing the blame about. To be Honest I havent read it but loads of people who have reccomend it, I just heard rumours from the climbing fraternaty at the time and it splitt the community of Climbing at the time. There was some strange storys doing the rounds.
Wow mate! fuk! Thats insane,
I watch and read alot of stuff on Everest too;(the stuff she recommends is a good read).
You really have faced the other side (in the death zone) and come out,an amazing life you have lead so far mate.
:drinker:cheers,good health.
I dont know if this rings a bell : Would the book be:
Naked Before the Mountain ยท Pierre Mazeaud ?
Thats the one, He was a complete Nutter, and the French defense minisrer I think. He caused a western type Punchup in a Bar in Chamionix with the English, He was trying to get off with my mates Girl and Fondling Her. All Hell broke loose with the French and the English, there was a few English lads there that night. We got cartered off to the Nick and charged with Fighting with the French minister of Defence, Fucking Hell fortunatly, a few Swiss were in the Bar and blamed Him. So we got off with it. But a complete Arsehole.
;D Ahh justice prevailed;
Who'd have thought; Bloody climbing tree frogs eh!
Just as well you never got to him personally in the bar you probably would of broke his jaw if it had come to it.