Anyone know how to do it? Do I lay the whe floor with tiles then put a bath on top aswell as a shower cubicle?
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Anyone know how to do it? Do I lay the whe floor with tiles then put a bath on top aswell as a shower cubicle?
Yes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dropanuke
Although dont forget to run water and waste pipes under the tiles if you are moving the bath/ sink/ toilet.
Even though the ceramic tiles arnt going to be seen?
yes
get a 'man' in to do it
Was thinking about doing it myself
If it were me I'd strip it all out and go with stained/sealed concrete.
http://ts1.mm.bing.net/th?id=H.46826...02424&pid=15.1
Not hard to do, looks great and more durable than any other option.
That does look great. I bet it's quite cold, could always run some hot water pipes under the top layer of concrete for underwater heating I guess.Quote:
Originally Posted by VictorCharlie
Didn't think about the weather. I know yall's heating bills are pretty high and obviously it doesn't get that cold in my part of Texas. Maybe a nice thick pair of merino wool socks?
It looks a bit like drying plaster and a pain in the arse when your Mrs changes her mind. Tiles are pretty easy to lay and you can get thousands of finishes nowadays. Just done up our bathroom and glass on the walls is a nice alternative but quite expensive.Quote:
Originally Posted by VictorCharlie
Don't be lazy!Quote:
Originally Posted by Dropanuke
For the sake of a few tiles, it's worth doing, it will probably take just as long to measure where they should be as it will to actually tile it.
If the bathroom is upstairs, use flexi grout and decent interlocking boards underneath. If not, the floor will move and your tiles will crack.
I got a buddy that was doing this part time for a while. Image search stained concrete floors and you can see some really cool colors and designs
I'm not sure how hard or easy it is to change later but b/c it is the same concrete slab the house is built on you can always carpet or tile over it if so desired.Quote:
Originally Posted by GreenbeanzIt looks a bit like drying plaster and a pain in the arse when your Mrs changes her mind. Tiles are pretty easy to lay and you can get thousands of finishes nowadays. Just done up our bathroom and glass on the walls is a nice alternative but quite expensive.Quote:
Originally Posted by VictorCharlie
I tile because we have to do marble floors occasionally.
Set it all out dry in tiles one line of tiles one way through the room then go dead square the other way so you have a cross od dry tiles in the room that way you will be able to measure over to each wall and see if they are running parrallell and if they are square to each other. you also get to see the gauge of the tiles (over size including joints) so that you can choose where the line of cuts will be best hidden. (You choose where you want full tiles against the most seen wall and the cuts against the most forgiving or maybe the worst wall (where you'd have to do some cuts tiles anyway). ( Maybe a bent wall or out of square one)
Then mark the floor carefully and use two string lines on high nails so that you they are dead square on the edge of your line of tiles so that you can trowel the adhesive on under the string without moving it. You can then lay each square of tiles individually in each four sections of the cross you have alreay laid and you'll know it will all work exact and their wont be any surprises at the end. work out towards the door in the last remaining quarter.
Use a two part rubber based adhesive with a 10mm notched trowel and choose the largest tiles you can possibly afford.
take the exact sizes and shape of the room on paper down with you when purchasing tiles so that you can choose tile size that works best for you too. you will probably need underlay as well cement sheet nailed down with clouts; dont be miserly with the clouts either use alot of them and use a mash hammer to lightly tap them once then bang them in in one hit after wear glasses and keep kids away because they do fire out from under the hammer occasionally when going into cement sheet.
Id sooner go with polished concrete too If I could :cool:
Andre knows his stuff. If you're tiling on floorboards you need to sort the plumbing out first and test it as you don't want to have to break the floor up and redo it if there's a leak when you're done. The best kind of plumbing is solvent seal, you brush the solvent into the joints and it melts everything together giving you a watertight seal. And if it gets cold in the winter use plastic pipe for your feed too as it won't burst. Also fit isolator valves to all your incoming stuff where you can get to them easily, sink, ti=oilet, bath/shower etc.
Get eleven mil (half inch) OSB sheets or plywood and cut them to the size of the room. Draw a six inch square grid over the floor surface and at every cross put a one inch screw in, so the surface is screwed down every six inches in every direction. Then make sure you use flexible floor adhesive and flexible floor grout.
Do you have a picture of what you mean just as a reference?Quote:
Originally Posted by Kirkland Laing
If not then its cool
https://www.google.co.uk/#hl=en&tbo=...pw.r_qf.&cad=b
Try wading through that lot. You'll learn a lot more. Best spend a lot of time reading how to do it (maybe check youtube too) instead of rushing it and fucking it up.
Thanks man
Dropanuke if you can do it then anyone can. Good luck.
Don't know what you're talkin bouts, but this is what I do...
http://www.onsafari.com/photos/accom...t%20Shower.JPG
Cool. Dig a hole under the bathmat and you'll eventually catch a Goat!
Don't listen to these guys, you've got to put the bath and shower down first and then tile over them. It's all the rage.
I want to know what's best incase of leaks etc
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dropanuke
This...
http://www.charterworld.com/images/y...h%20Shower.jpg
:cool:
What sort of bath? On legs or drop in style? Drop in style goes into a pre made timber frame covered with ac cement sheet on the sides,that you can tile on after. You can leave a false square door in the end so that you can get to the plumbing after if you are worried.You just tile in the square and fill the surrounding joints with something removable like flexi fill or white silicon cut around with a knife and you can get in under the bath easily. thats mostly done for spa baths when there a motor that will need servicing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dropanuke
Or get a good Plumber and you wont ever have any trouble anyway. Get a bath with a saftey overfill built into it,worth while.
If you on a timber floor a pre formed shower base is the only safe way to go,In first tile up to it on the floor tile the walls in the shower cut around the blank taps that are already fitted,then get a shower screen fitted last.