Guy from my county surfs Mahoosive wave

[Spicoli]

Badass!! The pucker factor of knowing your -eventually- going into that abyss in hopes of coming out the end is overwhelming. Enjoy the ride!

[Andre]

I wouldnt go near that wave pictured above ,but there are large soft waves that break along in deep water,then there are these evil thick as,back breaking fast ones that throw over tonnes and tonnes of water in the barrel over shallow sharp coral reefs .

Bit like the death zone in climbing theres climbing, then theres putting it all on the line climbing.