I went a few years back with the Mrs smash, and we explored the old Mayan ruins, visited a lot of smaller towns along the coast, went to the mangroves for the wildlife. You can stay near to a lot of old temples/ruins and they are not on the coast or big resort like places. Food was great and the Mayan speaking peeps down south really friendly and welcoming. Great old churches and town squares, museums etc. Loads to do away from resorts if that is more your bag.
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