Yeah Spicolli and Salty,Im braggin on this one sorry boys.
Today Monday 1st ,took the day off ,looked on the net saw no one out at my favorite break, sets comming at head high touch over occasoinally.30 knots of wind blowin straight offshore bit tough like rain comming backwards after each wave went through but it was holding them up until they threw out over the shallow reef. Honeysuckle point is a long exposed reef and it breaks down the side of it in about 1 to 3 feet of water so the wave has a varied barrel shape ,goes floppy then round as when it goes shallow but barrels the whole way on some.
Ha only two of us in the water that could surf inside, 8degrees in the air,sunny to start, fuck knows about the water temp but your head aches on the first dive,warmer than the air though,boots wetsuit hoods got one medium size and a 4 to 5 second pit.
HAha the swell is comming up ,fuck work tomorrow too!
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