I check in here clean up any rubbish, have a laugh with you guys. Then I go have a spa in the morning sun thats set on 38'7.5 deg and do a few meditations in there. Then recheck the internet surf cams, tides, winds and if its on at my favorite break, I try and time being the first one over there at the correct time to suit the tide and swell height with the amount of wind to hold it up to the right place on the reef at the exact time. If I got time to kill, Ill ride the motor bike over there early for a real look at the conditions, best bends and country roads with hills and farms all the way over, probably 35 kilometers round trip,its great fun.
Load the van, fun drive back my favorite roads, go get some tube time, first few I get all on my own then eventually people appear on the lookout ramp on the top of the cliffs and Im 1/2 a K out to sea so I know when they see me get another barrel they will run back to their cars get changed and ill see them in 15 minutes next to me, so I go all out. Hopefully only a hand full come out and share the take off rock.Surf for another hour then off to the strawberry farm on the way home get two massive punnets and sometimes blackberry jam and dip fresh stawberries the size of small apples in the jam and eat while driving slowly through the best looking country on sun drenched lanes with over hanging trees all the way home. Outdoor shower in the sun rinse out wetsuit.Mrs comes home from work (someone has to do it) Order Tai food or Indian, few cups of tea and finish the day in the sack after a shared spa out under the moonlight or stars.
The wave i grew up on: called Meanos
Its out here:
Parks Victoria: Flinders Coastline (photo: Kim Cott)![]()


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