Lucky boy could have been two inches to the right.
Do you know if it was his own board or did he get run over?
Ive seen something close once years ago paddling out to a break called Meanos and watched a guy take off left and as he took off the bottom fell out of the wave ,his board a single fin went down nose first hit the reef and stopped and he got driven down onto it his teeth split open as the sharp back of his fin went up past the side of his nose.
Never saw him out there again.
That's a girl and it is from hitting a reef during a wipeout.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S4YBlrmxScg&feature=player_embedded#!
Thanks
God it shows you how fast i looked at that and got off it ehhorrible injury, worse for a chick! Shes got a bigger set than me I wouldnt surf 6 foot if it was that think.
Have a look at what they were surfing![]()
You surfers are mad.
Do not let success go to your head and do not let failure get to your heart.
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